Before you pick a solar kit, add up the watt-hours your loads use each day, because that one number sets most of the parts list.
A solar electric kit is a matched set of solar panels, a charge controller or inverter, a battery when the system is off-grid, and the mounting hardware and cables, sold together so the parts work as one system. Pick the kit type by use, whether RV, cabin, portable or grid-tie, then size it from daily watt-hours.
This guide first sorts the main kit types by use and explains what each part inside a kit does, in plain words. It then walks through sizing a kit from daily watt-hours with one worked example, and separates a solar install kit, which is the mounting hardware, from a full electric kit.
A specs table compares kit classes side by side, and the last sections cover when to buy a packaged kit and when to assemble one from parts. For assembled builds, LinkSolar supplies panel brackets, rails and clamps for kit builds along with the panels and controller.
What is a solar electric kit, and which kit types are there?
A solar electric kit is a packaged power system: one or more solar panels plus the parts that turn sunlight into usable electricity, matched by one seller so the voltages and connectors line up. Buying the parts as a set removes the guesswork of pairing a panel with a controller, a battery and mounts that were never meant to work together.
The panel is only the visible part of the kit. Behind it sit a charge controller that regulates charging, usually a battery that stores energy for the night, the mounts that hold the array in place and the cables and fuses that connect everything, and the next section explains each one in plain words.
Kits differ mainly in where the power goes: into a fixed battery, into a portable power station or into the home circuit. That splits them into four types by use.
- 12 V off-grid kits: These pair a panel, a charge controller, a battery and mounts for an RV, van, boat or cabin, and the LinkSolar RV page sizes weekend campers at 100 to 200 W and full-time van builds at 200 to 400 W.
- Portable folding kits: A folding kit packs the panel into a carry case and typically feeds a 12 V battery or a portable power station through its own leads, so nothing is fixed to a roof.
- Grid-tie and balcony kits: Grid-tie kits typically carry no battery, feed the home circuit through an inverter and need the utility's approval before connection, while balcony systems typically run about 100 to 800 W of panels on removable, non-penetrating hardware, as laid out in balcony kits compared with rooftop systems.
- Small device kits: Kits under 50 W bundle a panel, a controller, an output connector and mounting hardware sized for one low-voltage device, and the guide to small kits sized for a single sensor or camera covers that class in detail.
The rest of this guide deals mostly with 12 V off-grid kits, because that is the type where the buyer picks every part: panel wattage, controller, battery, mounts and wiring. Getting those choices right starts with the size of the daily load, which the sizing section works through step by step.
What is inside a solar electric kit, and what does each part do?
A solar electric kit contains up to six parts: panels make DC power, the charge controller feeds that power safely into the battery, the battery stores it, an inverter turns it into AC when needed, and mounts and cables hold and connect it all. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, solar modules are only one part of a complete PV system, which also needs mounting, and inverters and batteries where the loads call for them.
Here is what each part does, in the order the power flows.
- Solar panel: The panel turns sunlight into DC power, and according to PVEducation, most modules meant to charge a 12 V battery use 36 cells in series and run about 17 to 18 V at max power, which matches the 18.05 V Vmp listed for the 100 W model among the flexible panels for curved RV and boat roofs.
- Charge controller: The controller works like a valve, letting the panel's higher voltage into the battery only as fast as the battery can safely take it, with an MPPT type converting the extra voltage into charging current where a PWM type trims it away.
- Battery: The battery stores the day's energy for night and cloudy days, and off-grid 12 V kits typically use lead-acid or LiFePO4, with LiFePO4 lighter and able to use more of its capacity.
- Inverter: The inverter converts battery DC into AC and is needed only for AC appliances, since lights, fans, a 12 V fridge, pumps and routers run on 12 V DC from the battery through the controller or a fuse block.
- Mounting hardware: Brackets, rails, clamps or adhesive fix the panel to a roof, wall or pole, and the right choice depends on the surface, as the install kit section below explains.
- Cables, connectors and fuse: MC4 leads join the panels to the controller, and the cabin wiring guidance puts a fuse or DC breaker within about 18 cm of the battery positive terminal.
For a small 12 V build, a 10 A MPPT controller for small 12 V kits sits between the panel and the battery and shows charge status on its front display. The guide to charging a battery bank from a panel covers how the controller's charging profile and the battery chemistry need to match.
Retail kits bundle all six parts in one box. In an assembled kit, LinkSolar supplies the panels, brackets and controller from its partner factories, and sources batteries and inverters to spec on request, so every part is matched to the same system voltage.
How do you size a solar electric kit from daily watt-hours?
A solar electric kit is sized from the watt-hours its loads use per day: add 20 to 30 % for losses, divide by the peak sun hours of the worst month to get panel watts, and size the battery to cover the days without sun. The panel wattage comes out of that arithmetic, so the load list matters more than the number printed on the kit box.
- List the loads: Write down each device's power draw in watts and the hours it runs per day.
- Add up the daily energy: Multiply watts by hours for each device and add the results to get Wh/day.
- Add losses: Raise the total by 20 to 30 % to cover controller, wiring and temperature losses.
- Size the panel: Divide the Wh/day with losses by the peak sun hours of the worst month to get panel watts.
- Size the battery: Pick 1 to 3 days of autonomy, or more in snowy or overcast regions, and multiply the daily watt-hours by that number to set battery capacity.
Peak sun hours are the equivalent hours of full sun a site gets in a day, and the number drops in winter. Sizing on the worst month keeps the battery charged when days are short and the sun sits low.
Illustrative worked example (figures from the live LinkSolar off-grid cabin page, September 25, 2026):
- Loads: A fridge at 45 W for 10 h (450 Wh), lights at 25 W for 6 h (150 Wh), a fan at 30 W for 6 h (180 Wh) and 200 Wh of electronics add up to about 980 Wh/day.
- Losses: Adding 25 % for losses brings the daily figure to about 1,225 Wh.
- Panel: With about 4 peak sun hours in the worst month, 1,225 Wh ÷ 4 h gives about a 310 W array.
- Battery: A 200 Ah 12 V bank carries that load for about 2 days of autonomy.
The same load table, with mounting and fusing notes, sits on the page about cabin power sized for the worst-sun month.
Vehicle kits follow the same math at a smaller scale. Weekend campers land at 100 to 200 W, while full-time van builds with a 12 V compressor fridge run 200 to 400 W, and the page on RV roof arrays by travel style breaks those tiers down.
At the small end, a single 4G camera with its router lands near a 70 W panel and a 60 Ah 12 V battery for three days, as the guide to sizing solar for a 4G security camera shows.
Is a solar install kit the same as a solar electric kit?
A solar install kit is the mounting hardware only (Z-brackets, rails, clamps and fasteners), while a solar electric kit adds the panels, charge controller, battery and wiring that turn sunlight into usable electricity. An installation kit holds the panel up; an electric kit makes and stores the power. An off-grid build needs both, and the mounting side depends on the surface under the panel.
The table compares three common install kit formats with a full electric kit by contents, panel type and surface.
| Kit | What is inside | Panel type | Typical surface |
|---|---|---|---|
| Z-bracket install kit | Aluminum Z-brackets in 4, 8 or 16 piece sets, fasteners | Rigid framed | RV, trailer, boat, compatible roof or wall |
| Short rail install kit | 30 cm aluminum rails, 30 mm and 35 mm end clamps, fastening hardware | Rigid framed | Flat roof |
| Adhesive mount | Bonding adhesive, no brackets or holes | Flexible | Curved RV and boat roofs |
| Solar electric kit | Panels, charge controller, battery, cables, mounts | Rigid or flexible | RV, van, cabin, off-grid site |
Z-bracket sets are the low-profile option for framed panels, and aluminum Z-bracket sets in 4, 8 or 16 pieces give an offset mounting point between the panel frame and an RV, trailer, boat or shed roof. On a vehicle roof, at least one fastener in each bracket should reach a roof frame member rather than the thin skin alone, and every hole gets sealed. Confirm the frame holes, bracket spacing and roof structure before drilling.
Short rail kits suit flat-roof layouts where framed panels sit in a row. For that job, a 30 cm rail kit with end clamps pairs aluminum rail sections with end clamps in 30 mm and 35 mm sizes, so check the frame thickness and roof attachment points first. For longer rail runs, the guide to what a full rail kit ships with covers the full contents.
Flexible panels usually skip brackets altogether and are bonded to the roof with adhesive, which avoids drilling holes. Rigid framed panels usually go on Z-brackets instead, because brackets carry more load.
The bracket collection covers six mounting methods for panels from 5 W to about 400 W, including Z-brackets, rail kits, clamps, pole and wall mounts and drill-free mounts. Start from the surface the kit goes on, not from the panel.
Specs to compare before you order a solar kit
Compare solar kits by panel wattage, system voltage, battery chemistry and mount type against your use, because those four specs decide whether a kit covers your daily watt-hours and fits your roof. Settle them before you look at cable length, case color or extra adapters.
- Panel wattage: Match it to the array size you worked out from daily watt-hours and worst-month sun hours, then round up to the next panel class.
- System voltage: Small and mobile kits stay at 12 V, while larger cabin and work-rig kits typically move to 24 V or 48 V banks to keep current and cable size down.
- Battery chemistry: Off-grid 12 V kits typically use lead-acid or LiFePO4, and LiFePO4 is lighter and allows deeper usable discharge.
- Mount type: Choose it from the surface first, since a curved van roof, a flat cabin roof and a balcony railing each take different hardware.
Check each panel's open-circuit voltage against the controller as well. The 135 W flexible panel runs up to about 30 V open circuit, well above the 12 V battery it charges.
The table below compares five kit classes by use, with figures from live LinkSolar pages where they exist and typical values elsewhere.
| Kit class | Panel W | System V | Battery chemistry | Mount type | Best use |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Small device kit | Under 50 W | 5 to 12 V output | Small built-in or 12 V pack (typical) | Pole or wall bracket | One camera or sensor |
| RV and van off-grid | 100 to 200 W weekends, 200 to 400 W full-time | 12 V | Lead-acid or LiFePO4 (typical) | Flexible bonded or Z-brackets | Lights, fans, 12 V fridge, pump |
| Off-grid cabin | About 200 W up to 800 Wh/day; 300 to 400 W for 1.0 to 1.6 kWh/day | 12 V, larger builds 24 V (typical) | LiFePO4 or lead-acid (typical) | Z-brackets, tilt or pole mounts | Cabin, tiny house, shed |
| Portable folding | Varies by model | 12 V | External battery or power station (typical) | Folding stand or case | Camping, backup |
| Grid-tie or balcony | About 100 to 800 W for balcony systems | Inverter output to home circuit | None (typical) | Drill-free hooks or rails | Daytime home loads |
Send your load list and roof type and LinkSolar confirms which panels, brackets and controller fit, or compare the 50 W, 100 W and 135 W flexible panels before you write.
Should you buy a packaged solar kit or assemble one from parts?
Buy a packaged solar kit when your load and roof are standard, and assemble a solar kit from parts when the roof shape, system voltage or fleet layout calls for panels and mounts chosen to fit. A packaged kit settles every part in one order. An assembled kit matches each part to the surface and the load list.
A packaged kit usually fits when:
- One vehicle or cabin: A single RV, van or cabin has one buyer choosing the parts once.
- Flat roof section: A flat, unshaded run of roof takes standard framed panels on brackets.
- 12 V loads: The loads are lights, fans, a small pump and a 12 V fridge running from a 12 V bank.
- Standard sizing: Your daily watt-hours land inside one of the kit classes in the specs table.
An assembled kit usually fits when:
- Curved roof or odd outline: The roof curves or leaves an irregular space, so the panel has to follow the surface or be built to its outline.
- Other voltages: The device needs a panel voltage other than 12 V, anywhere from 3 V to 48 V.
- Fleet rollout: A fleet of vans needs one standardized fleet kit with clear service labels, so every roof is wired and serviced the same way.
- Mixed panels: The roof takes flexible panels on the curved part and rigid panels where airflow underneath fits, a mix many RVs already use.
For an assembled kit, LinkSolar works as the sourcing partner: it supplies standard and custom panels from its partner factories, along with brackets, rails and the 10 A 12 V MPPT controller. Batteries and inverters are sourced to spec on request, matched to the system voltage and battery chemistry you choose. Custom panels come in any outline, at voltages from 3 V to 48 V, with PET, ETFE or fiberglass lamination.
Send a drawing or a load figure through the page for custom panels built to your outline and voltage, and you get back a buildable spec for the panels, mounts and controller. A fleet buyer can send one roof drawing and receive the same parts list for every vehicle. Ask the supplier for the test report that covers the panel you order.
FAQ: solar electric kits
What is the best RV solar panel kit?
The best RV solar panel kit is the one sized to your travel style and matched to your roof. Weekend campers typically run 100 to 200 W, while full-time builds with a 12 V compressor fridge run 200 to 400 W. Flexible panels follow curved roofs, and rigid panels on brackets run slightly cooler where airflow fits underneath.
What is the best solar kit for an off-grid cabin?
The best solar kit for an off-grid cabin is sized from the watt-hours the cabin uses per day in the worst-sun month. A weekend cabin using up to 800 Wh/day typically starts around 200 W of panels with a 20 A MPPT controller. On a shaded roof, tilt or pole mounts put the array where the sun reaches it.
What is the best solar kit for a van?
The best solar kit for a van follows the RV logic: size the panels from daily watt-hours and fit them to the roof shape. On a curved van roof, flexible panels mounted flat keep height and weight low and feed a 12 V battery bank. A van with a 12 V fridge, vent fans and a laptop usually lands in the 200 to 400 W range.
Do solar kits come with batteries?
Off-grid solar kits typically include a battery or name the one they are built to charge, while grid-tie kits typically carry no battery. Off-grid 12 V kits typically use lead-acid or LiFePO4, and LiFePO4 is lighter with deeper usable discharge.
Can a 12 V solar kit run household appliances?
A 12 V solar kit runs household AC appliances only when an inverter is added to the system. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, inverters convert DC from solar modules into AC for most home appliances. Lights, fans, a 12 V fridge, pumps and routers run on 12 V DC without one.
Next step
List each load with its watts and daily hours, then note the roof surface and battery voltage. With that list, request a quote for the panels, brackets and controller, and LinkSolar matches parts from its partner factories to your roof and load. Use the custom panel page to send your load list for a kit parts quote.